Are
Oysters Doomed?
Don’t
believe in climate change? Talk to a clam digger. ‘Pray that the
winds change soon.’
18
February 2013
Behind
the counter at Seattle’s Taylor Shellfish Market, a brawny guy with
a goatee pries open kumamoto, virginica, and shigoku oysters as
easily as other men pop beer cans. David Leck is a national oyster
shucking champion who opened and plated a dozen of them in just over
a minute (time is added for broken shells or mangled meat) at the
2012 Boston International Oyster Shucking Competition. You have to be
quick, these days, to keep up with demand. The oysters here were
grown nearby in Taylor’s hundred-year-old beds, but the current
hunger for pedigreed mollusks on the half shell stretches to raw bars
and markets across the country.
A
similar oyster craze swept the United States in the 1800s, when the
bivalves were eaten with alacrity in New York, San Francisco, and
anywhere else that could get them fresh. Development of a fancy new
technology, canning, meant there was money in preserved oysters, too.
Gold miners in Northern California celebrated their riches with an
oyster omelet called hangtown fry. New Yorkers ate them on the
street; late at night they ate them in “oyster cellars.” Walt
Whitman had them for breakfast.
That
wave crashed. By the early 1900s, oysters were disappearing because
of overharvesting and water pollution. Today’s revival is possible
because oyster farms are better managed, and regulations have
improved water quality. But a modern threat looms for ice-chilled
fruits de mer platters, although it’s hard to tell with oyster
juice on your chin. This time it’s a worldwide problem, affecting
marine ecosystems everywhere. Ocean waters are turning corrosive, and
it’s happening so quickly scientists say there may not be any
oysters left to eat in coming decades.
Ocean
acidification, as scientists call this pickling of the seas, is, like
climate change, a result of the enormous amount of carbon dioxide
humans have pumped into the atmosphere. Oceans have absorbed about a
quarter of that output, and ocean chemistry has changed as a result.
Surface water pH has long been an alkaline 8.2, not far from the pH
of baking soda, but it now averages about 8.1. That doesn’t look
like much, but since pH is a logarithmic scale, that means a 30
percent increase in the acidity. By the end of this century, surface
water pH could further lower to 7.8 or below.
We
don’t yet know who the ocean’s winners and losers will be in the
more corrosive world. Jellyfish and some seagrasses may thrive under
more acidic conditions. On the other hand, calcifiers—organisms
that make calcium carbonate shells and skeletons, such as shellfish
and corals—appear to be in trouble. In the United States,
scientists have seen dissolving clam larvae in Maine, corroded
oysters in Washington state’s hatcheries, and mussels with thinned
shells off the Pacific Northwest coast.
Taylor
Shellfish first saw what this pH shift could do to its business in
2006, when the company noticed that two- and three-day-old oyster
larvae in its hatcheries were dying. In itself, this wasn’t news.
“Hatcheries have a lot of different variables,” says Bill Dewey,
Taylor’s spokesperson. “There are a host of reasons your larvae
can die.” But this time, none of the usual fixes—filtering out
harmful bacteria, for instance—made a difference. By 2009, hatchery
production was down 60 to 80 percent, and others in the region were
reporting similar problems. Oyster larvae outside of hatcheries were
dying, too. In Willapa Bay, an estuary off the southwest Washington
coast where a quarter of the nation’s oysters are harvested, many
growers rely on natural sets—free-spawning larvae that swim around
until they attach themselves to oyster shells placed by growers.
Those natural sets stopped producing, and the Willapa growers turned
to the struggling hatcheries for oyster seed.
The
industry finally pulled out of its tailspin in 2010, when NOAA
scientists determined that what was killing the oyster larvae was
corrosive water that entered the hatchery at certain times of the
year—usually in summer, and specifically on days when winds from
the northwest caused upwelling of deeper water, which is more acidic
than surface water. With federal money, hatcheries were able to
install sophisticated pH monitors and CO2 monitors. When waters are
becoming too corrosive, hatchery operators can now close off the
seawater intake, and, Dewey says, “pray that the winds change
soon.”
Monitoring
is not a permanent fix, however, so scientists are exploring
adaptation strategies. At NOAA’s Northwest Fisheries Center,
research ecologist Shallin Busch and colleagues are studying the
possibility of raising oysters in eelgrass beds, since the plants
naturally take up carbon and bury it in sediment, perhaps making
their immediate environment less acidic. In Maine, Mark Green of St.
Joseph’s College is looking for ways to restore clam populations by
raising alkalinity in shellfish beds using crushed shells. “It’s
like putting a layer of Rolaids down,” he says. Other possibilities
being studied include lowering pH by adding sodium carbonate to
hatchery water. Selective breeding may lead to oysters that survive
better in these new conditions. Nitrogen runoff from land also
contributes to acidification, so reducing water pollution can boost
shellfish survival.
Unlike
other problems caused by CO2, ocean acidification is spurring some
action, possibly because the effects are so visibly tied to the
cause. “With climate change there’s often a schism between
scientists and those who flat out don’t want to believe it,” says
Green. “It’s hard to get a man to believe something if his job
depends on not believing it.” But in this case, he says, it’s the
people in the industry who are leading awareness. “Talk to
shellfish clammers—the guys who dig—and every one of them is on
board, especially the old timers. They have seen over the years the
populations go from incredibly productive to virtually disappearing
in many cases.” One bit of anecdotal evidence diggers have reported
is clams with thinner shells—so thin, they say, that sometimes it’s
not possible to fill bushel baskets to the top because the fragile
shells at the bottom will be crushed.
For
the diggers, a scientific fix is the only hope they have of saving
their industry. But even the best near-shore solution can’t stop
the pH drop that’s taking place oceanwide, not unless we plan to
stop releasing carbon dioxide into the atmosphere and replace it with
Milk of Magnesia.
Last
fall, some of the first evidence of how ocean acidification is
affecting organisms in the wild came from scientists investigating
Southern Ocean pteropods, tiny marine snails also known as sea
butterflies. NOAA’s Nina Bednarsek, lead author of the report, says
the team found dissolving shells in pteropods at far shallower depths
than expected. The spiraling shells were pitted and peeling like
paint on a neglected house. “It was fascinating and a bit
disturbing to see,” she says. The dissolution won’t necessarily
kill pteropods, “but they will definitely be more vulnerable to
predators and infectious diseases.”
Pteropods are an abundant,
important part of the ocean food web, preying on the ocean’s
phytoplankton—drifting plants—and providing food for larger
species. Pteropods make up 50 percent of the diet of pink salmon in
the North Pacific. According to NOAA chemical oceanographer Richard
Feely, a 10 percent drop in the production of pteropods produces a 20
percent weight drop in a mature pink salmon. Sea butterflies are an
indicator species, showing that ocean acidification is already
affecting marine ecosystems.
The
long-term projections for ocean acidification make people even more
anxious. “Even if we change our CO2 emissions policies today, the
problem’s going to get worse in the next 30 to 50 years before it
gets better,” says Dewey, given how long carbon dioxide persists in
the atmosphere. “We’re anticipating that down the road it is
probably going to affect our adult oysters as well as our seedlings.”
The
corrosive surface water scientists are measuring is in effect a time
capsule from the 1960s. Carbon dioxide is absorbed by phytoplankton
on the water’s surface. When those organisms die, they sink deep
into the ocean, taking the CO2 along for the ride. At depth, the dead
phytoplankton release the CO2 back into the water. For this and other
reasons, the deeper ocean tends more toward acidity than shallow
waters. In places where we are seeing the effects of ocean
acidification first, such as the northwestern United States and the
parts of the Southern Ocean studied by Bednarsek, that old, corrosive
water has risen to the surface. As the years pass, that upwelling
water will have a lower and lower pH, reflecting the increase in our
carbon dioxide output from the 1980s, the 1990s, and today. By
midcentury, it’s likely that about 50 percent of the seawater will
be too corrosive for growing oysters.
“It’s
like: holy crap,” says Dewey. “Seawater conditions are getting
such that they are dissolving our animals, and the source of that
problem is global CO2 emissions—what can we possibly do? Even a big
shellfish company like ours can’t fix that problem.”
As
with climate change, ocean acidification will require more
comprehensive, aggressive measures. But, hey, if we don’t fix this?
We’ll need to invent some new recipes for jellyfish and seagrass
Doesn't bode well for Bluff Oysters either.I don't even like them but I know what the food chain looks like and this is not just bad!
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