America's
first climate refugees
Newtok,
Alaska is losing ground to the sea at a dangerous rate and for its
residents, exile is inevitable.
13
May, 2013
Sabrina
Warner keeps having the same nightmare: a huge wave rearing up out of
the water and crashing over her home, forcing her to swim for her
life with her toddler son.
"I
dream about the water coming in," she said. The landscape in
winter on the Bering Sea coast seems peaceful, the tidal wave of
Warner's nightmare trapped by snow and several feet of ice. But the
calm is deceptive. Spring break-up will soon restore the Ninglick
River to its full violent force.
In
the dream, Warner climbs on to the roof of her small house. As the
waters rise, she swims for higher ground: the village school which
sits on 20-foot pilings.
Even
that isn't high enough. By the time Warner wakes, she is clinging to
the roof of the school, desperate to be saved.
Warner's
vision is not far removed from a reality written by climate change.
The people of Newtok, on the west coast of Alaska and about 400 miles
south of the Bering Strait that separates the state from Russia, are
living a slow-motion disaster that will end, very possibly within the
next five years, with the entire village being washed away.
The
Ninglick River coils around Newtok on three sides before emptying
into the Bering Sea. It has steadily been eating away at the land,
carrying off 100ft or more some years, in a process moving at unusual
speed because of climate change. Eventually all of the villagers will
have to leave, becoming America's first climate change refugees.
It
is not a label or a future embraced by people living in Newtok.
Yup'ik Eskimo have been fishing and hunting by the shores of the
Bering Sea for centuries and the villagers reject the notion they
will now be forced to run in chaos from ancestral lands.
But
exile is undeniable. A report by the US Army Corps of Engineers
predicted that the highest point in the village – the school of
Warner's nightmare – could be underwater by 2017. There was no
possible way to protect the village in place, the report concluded.
If
Newtok can not move its people to the new site in time, the village
will disappear. A community of 350 people, nearly all related to some
degree and all intimately connected to the land, will cease to exist,
its inhabitants scattered to the villages and towns of western
Alaska, Anchorage and beyond.
It's
a choice confronting more than 180 native communities in Alaska,
which are flooding and losing land because of the ice melt that is
part of the changing climate.
The
Arctic Council, the group of countries that governs the polar
regions, are gathering in Sweden today. But climate change refugees
are not high on their agenda, and Obama administration officials told
reporters on Friday there would be no additional money to help
communities in the firing line.
On
the other side of the continent, the cities and towns of the east
coast are waking up to their own version of Warner's nightmare: the
storm surges demonstrated by hurricane Sandy. About half of America's
population lives within 50 miles of a coastline. Those numbers are
projected to grow even more in the coming decades.
What
chance do any of those communities, in Alaska or on the Atlantic
coast, have of a fair and secure future under climate change, if a
tiny community like Newtok – just 63 houses in all – cannot be
assured of survival?
But
as the villagers of Newtok are discovering, recognising the gravity
of the threat posed by climate change and responding in time are two
very different matters.
Remote
location
Newtok
lies 480 miles due west of Anchorage. The closest town of any size,
the closest doctor, gas station, or paved road, is almost 100 miles
away.
The
only year-round link to the outside world is via a small propeller
plane from the regional hub of Bethel.
The
seven-seater plane flies over a landscape that seems pancake flat
under the snow: bright white for land, slightly translucent swirls
for frozen rivers. There are no trees.
The
village as seen from the air is a cluster of almost identical small
houses, plopped down at random on the snow. The airport is a patch of
ground newly swept of snow, marked off for the pilot by a circle of
orange traffic cones. The airport manager runs the luggage into the
centre of the village on a yellow sledge attached to his snowmobile.
Like
many if not most native Alaskan villages, Newtok owes its location to
a distant bureaucrat. The Yup'iks, who had lived in these parts of
Alaska for hundreds of years, had traditionally used the area around
present-day Newtok as a seasonal stopping-off place, convenient for
late summer berry picking.
Even
then, their preferred encampment, when they passed through the area,
was a cluster of sod houses called Kayalavik, some miles further up
river. But over the years, the authorities began pushing native
Alaskans to settle in fixed locations and to send their children to
school.
It
was difficult for supply barges to manoeuvre as far up river as
Kayalavik. After 1959, when Alaska became a state, the new
authorities ordered villagers to move to a more convenient docking
point.
It
takes two hours from Anchorage to fly to Bethel and another 90
minutes in a smaller plane that stops in villages on the way, to
reach Newtok. Photograph: Richard Sprenger
That
became Newtok. Current state officials admit the location – on
low-lying mud flats between the river and the Bering Sea – was far
from perfect. It certainly wasn't chosen with a view to future
threats such as climate change.
"The
places are often where they are because it was easy to unload the
building materials and build the school and the post office there,"
said Larry Hartig, who heads the state's Commission on Environmental
Conservation. "But they weren't the ideal place to be in terms
of long-term stability and it's now creating a lot of problems that
are exacerbated by melting permafrost and less of the seasonal sea
ice that would form barriers between the winter storms and uplands."
It
became clear by the 1990s that Newtok – like dozens of other remote
communities in Alaska – was losing land at a dangerous rate. Almost
all native Alaskan villages are located along rivers and sea coasts,
and almost all are facing similar peril.
186Alaskan
villages are at risk because of climate change
$130million
could be the full cost of moving just the one village, NewtokSource:
US GAO
A
federal government report found more than 180 other native Alaskan
villages – or 86% of all native communities – were at risk
because of climate change. In the case of Newtok, those effects were
potentially life threatening.
A
study by the US Army Corps of Engineers on the effects of climate
change on native Alaskan villages, the one that predicted the school
would be underwater by 2017, found no remedies for the loss of land
in Newtok.
The
land was too fragile and low-lying to support sea walls or other
structures that could keep the water out, the report said, adding
that if the village did not move, the land would eventually be
overrun with water. People could die.
It
was a staggering verdict for Newtok. Some of the village elders
remember the upheaval of that earlier move. The villagers were
adamant that they take charge of the move this time and remain an
intact community – not scatter to other towns.
And
so after years of poring over reports, the entire community voted to
relocate to higher ground across the river. The decision was endorsed
by the state authorities. In December 2007, the village held the
first public meeting to plan the move.
The
proposed new site for Newtok, voted on by the villagers and approved
by government planners, lies only nine miles away, atop a high ridge
of dark volcanic rock across the river on Nelson Island. On a good
day in winter, it's a half-hour bone-shaking journey across the
frozen Ninglick river by snowmobile.
But
the cost of the move could run as high as $130m, according to
government estimates. For the villagers of Newtok, finding the cash,
and finding their way through the government bureaucracy, is proving
the challenge of their lives.
Five
years on from that first public meeting, Newtok remains stuck where
it was, the peeling tiles and the broken-down office furniture in the
council office grown even shabbier, the dilapidated water treatment
plant now shut down as a health hazard, an entire village tethered to
a dangerous location by bureaucratic obstacles and lack of funds.
Village
leaders hope that this coming summer, when conditions become warm
enough for construction crews to get to work, could provide the big
push Newtok needs by completing the first phase of basic
infrastructure. And the effort needs a push. When the autumn storms
blow in, the water rises fast.
Changing
climate
Climate
change remains a politically touchy subject in Alaska. The state owes
its prosperity to the development of the vast Prudhoe Bay oil fields
on the Arctic Coast.
Even
in Newtok, there are some who believe climate change is caused by
negative emotions, such as anger, hate and envy. But while some
dispute the overwhelming scientific view that climate change is
caused primarily by human activities, there is little argument in
Alaska about its effects..
The
state has warmed twice as fast as the rest of the country over the
past 60 years. Freeze-up occurs later, snow is wetter and heavier.
Wildfires erupt on the tundra in the summer. Rivers rush out to the
sea. Moose migrate north into caribou country. Grizzlies mate with
polar bear as their ranges overlap.
Even
people in their 20s, like Warner and her partner Nathan Tom, can
track the changes in their own lifetimes. Tom said the seasons have
changed. "The snow comes in a different timing now. The snow
disappears way late. That is making the geese come at the wrong time.
Now they are starting to lay their eggs when there is still snow and
ice and we can't go and pick them," Tom said. "It's
changing a lot. It's real, global warming, it's real."
On
days when the clouds move in, and the only sound is the crunch of
boots on snow and the distant buzzing of snowmobiles, it's difficult
to imagine a world beyond the village, let alone a threat.
But
Warner has seen the river rip into land and carry off clumps of
earth. "It's scary thinking about summer coming," she said.
"I don't know how much more is going to erode – hopefully not
as much as last year."
Warner
was raised in Anchorage and Wasilla, mainly by her non-Yup'ik father.
But she was introduced to Yup'ik food and Yupi'ik ways by her mother,
and she has taken to village life since moving to Newtok in December
2011 to be with Tom.
Even
in those short months, she said she can see the changes carved out on
the land behind the family home. "When I first got here the land
used to be way out there," she said, pointing towards the west.
"Now that doesn't exist any more. There is no land there any
more."
The
river claims more of the village every year. Warmer temperatures are
thawing the permafrost on which Newtok is built, and the land surface
is no longer stable. The sea ice that protected the village from
winter storms is thinning and receding, exposing Newtok to winter
storms with 100mph winds and the waves of Warner's nightmare.
When
the wind blows from the east or south, the land falls away even
faster. The patch of land where Warner picked last summer to practice
shooting was gone, on the other side of a sharp drop-off to the
river. "The summer came, 15 or 20ft of land went just from
melting, and then after we had those storms in September another 20ft
went," she said. In an average year the river swallows 83ft of
land a year, according to a report by the Government Accountability
Office. Some years of course it's more.
The
reddish-brown house where Tom and Warner live with their son Tyson
and elderly relatives is the closest in the village to the Ninglick.
Warner
fears her house will soon be swallowed up by that hungry river. "Two
more years, that's what I'm guessing. About two more years until it's
right up to our house," she said.
The
house is now barely 200 paces away from the drop-off point. It's
become a sort of tourist stop for visitors to the village, and an
educational aid for teachers at the local school. Last year, one of
the teachers set out stakes to mark how fast the river was rising. At
least one has already been washed away.
But
it won't be long before nobody in the village is safe. Other homes,
once considered well back from the river, now regularly flood.
Over
the years the river, in its attack on the land, engulfed a few small
ponds – some fresh water, some used as raw sewage dumps – spewing
human waste across the village. Last summer it almost carried off a
few dumpsters filled with old fridges and computers. It swept away
the barge landing, and infested the landfill.
Sometimes,
though, the river gives up treasure: villagers walking newly exposed
banks have discovered mammoth tusks and fossil remains.
During
one storm last autumn, Warner stayed up until 4am, waiting to see if
the waves would engulf the house. "I was scared because it
looked so close because our window is right there. I was just looking
out, and you can see these huge waves come at you," she said.
It's
not easy living with that fear every day, she concedes. Anxious
residents want to know that their future will be safe. They are
exhausted by the years of uncertainty and fed up with a village left
to decay, with leaders' energy and every scrap of funding focussed on
the relocation.
"Considering
that our house is the closest, I would like it if they would at least
let us know if we are going to have a house over there [at the new
site]", said Warner. Tom's grandmother, who needs oxygen, lives
with the couple. It would be tough to move her in the event of a
disaster, although she claims she is not at all afraid.
The
young couple go through times when they can't deal with the talk of
relocation. Tom bought a big tent some time ago and the couple have
talked about camping out at the site chosen for the new village, just
to get away – from the stress, from the drama of village politics –
until things are settled.
But
the relocation keeps being put off.
"A
few years ago, they said next year. And then last year they said next
year. And next year, they are probably going to say next year again,"
said Tom. But he soon perks up. The village has sent local men,
including Tom, for training as construction workers.
"It's
picking up," he said. "I'm not afraid any more. The erosion
is really fast. I know the state is going to deal with it pretty
fast. They are not going to leave us hanging there."
What
is a climate refugee?
The
immediate image that comes to mind of “climate refugees” is
people of small tropical islands in the Pacific or of a low-lying
delta like in Bangladesh, where inhabitants have been forced out of
their homes by sea-level rise.
The
broader phenomenon is usually taken to be people displaced from their
homes by the impact of a changing climate – although the strict
definition of a refugee in international law is more narrow including
people displaced by war, violence or persecution, but not
environmental changes.
With
climate change occurring rapidly in the far north, where temperatures
are warming faster than the global average, the typical picture of
the climate refugee is set to become more diverse. Sea ice is in
retreat, the permafrost is melting, bringing the effects of climate
change in real time to residents of the remote villages of Alaska.
These
villages, whose residents are nearly all native Alaskans, are already
experiencing the flooding and erosion that are the signature effects
of climate change in Alaska. The residents of a number of villages –
including Newtok – are now actively working to leave their homes
and the lands they have occupied for centuries and move to safer
locations.
Unlike
those in New Orleans forced to leave their homes because of hurricane
Katrina, their exile is not set in motion by a single cataclysmic
event. Climate change in Alaska is a slow-moving disaster. But its
effects are already very real for the native Alaskans who will be
America’s first climate refugees.
For
interactive see original article HERE
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