Shrinking,
debt-addled town of Yubari is Japan in miniature
The
population has shrunk to less than a tenth of its peak, services are
vanishing and white elephant public works projects have left the
greying inhabitants with a mountain of debt.
9
September, 2012
Welcome
to Yubari, Japan in miniature.
This
once-booming coal town built its wealth supplying the fuel that
powered Japan’s economic miracle of the 1960s and ‘70s.
But
the switch to oil, followed by the stalling of the national economy
as the asset and stock bubbles burst left public finances
floundering. Jobs dried up and people started moving away.
Undeterred,
the local authorities kept up the lavish public spending that is the
hallmark of Japanese bureaucrats, hoping the economy would pick up if
they threw enough money at it.
The
city built a sprawling amusement park and bought an unprofitable
hotel, both of which consistently failed to attract enough tourists.
Then
in 2007, things finally snapped and Yubari was declared bankrupt,
with debts of 63.2 billion yen.
Salaries
for some public sector employees were slashed almost in half, sending
many scurrying for the exits and leaving a much-depleted and very
demoralized workforce trying to make ever-shrinking ends meet.
What
was once a town of nearly 117,000 people now has a population of just
10,400, spread out over 763 square kilometers. The 23 wards that are
home to Tokyo’s 9 million people cover 620 square kilometers.
Of
those who are left in Yubari, 45% are aged 65 or over—high even by
the standards of greying Japan—putting extra strain on medical and
social welfare services, while adding little to the tax take.
It
was into this fiscal morass that Naomichi Suzuki, now 31, was
seconded in 2008 by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, with the aim
of bringing some big city discipline.
His
26-month stint, which saw him going door-to-door to learn about the
impact of spending cuts, gathered him a following and shortly after
his return to Tokyo, Yubari residents got in touch to ask him to run
for mayor.
“I
thought hard about it,” he recalled. “It was right after I
proposed to my wife, and her parents were strongly against my leaving
a stable job,” he said. “In the end, I listened to my inner voice
and knew that I really wanted to do it.”
The
bet paid off and in 2011 he was elected for a four-year term.
Yubari’s
chief problem, said Suzuki, is that local politicians did not cut
their spending accordingly, and public service provision in the early
21st century remained much as it had been 50 years earlier.
“We
are looking for ways to make services more efficient, and to live
happily without spending lots of money while the population keeps
shrinking,” Suzuki told AFP during a recent interview in his
office.
“I’m
proposing to build a compact city” where all key functions and
inhabitants will occupy a smaller area, the mayor said.
Suzuki’s
administration accelerated a program to reduce the seven elementary
schools and four junior high schools to one each, while a city museum
and library were both closed down.
The
hospital, once a place residents could consult pediatricians,
orthopedists, dermatologists and other medical experts, was scaled
down to a primary care clinic with general practitioners.
Under
the current repayment schedule, Yubari will have more than halved its
debt by 2026. The balance will be paid off over the following
decades.
Suzuki
said that eventually he wants to restore some of the services that
were cut—increasing the frequency of snowplowing in winter or
subsidizing medical fees for preschool children.
But
he knows what many of those in the city say—without jobs it has no
real future.
If
they can’t find well-paid work, “young people who wish to live in
Yubari can’t pay their housing loans,” said Yoko Ogawa, 65, whose
two children left Yubari to go to college and decided to stay away.
The
place has its charms, to be sure, said Yuta Kudo, 27, who moved here
from near Tokyo to become curator of the now privately-run Coal Mine
Museum.
“People
here are warm… My neighbors often bring me hand-made lunch boxes or
hand-picked wild vegetables as I’m single,” he said.
“And
I’m often asked if I’m planning to stay here in the future… but
I think that would be difficult. Everything is expensive: water, gas,
sewage and tax” because of the municipality’s debts, he said.
“There
is only one elementary school, one junior high and one high school,
and the high school has failed to meet its recruiting target in
recent years. If I have my own family, I want my children to get a
good education,” he said.
Yubari’s
shrinking and graying population is far from unique in Japan.
With
a below-replacement birth rate and lengthening life expectancy, the
country is getting old.
A
little over 23% of the nation are aged 65 or over, government figures
show. In 50 years, that will rise to 40%.
The
country is already running a primary deficit, and has debts that
equate to more than twice the size of its economy—one of the
highest levels in the world.
“Yubari
is often called Japan in miniature, as its problems are the same as
those that Japan faces,” Suzuki said. “I believe how we rebuild
Yubari is directly connected to Japan’s future.”
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