Surviving
in Waiau: the forgotten town closest to the NZ quake epicentre
Residents,
many now homeless, have been looking after each other as relief
efforts and media focus on tourist town of Kaikoura
17
November, 2016
As
rescue helicopters fly overhead, Brenda Smith sits outside her ruined
Waiau tea shop smoking a cigarette, nodding at locals who drive past
in battered cars to homes that are no longer habitable.
Since
Monday, Smith has had no electricity, no phone and little sleep. She
has lost NZ$50,000 (£28,000) worth of stock and is rapidly running
out of patience.
“Even
though we were closest to the epicentre it has never been about
Waiau; it is all about Kaikoura,” said Smith, who has operated her
tea shop for almost a decade.
“Kaikoura
is a destination, people know Kaikoura. Just because we aren’t
known doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be. It is just frustrating …
the prime minister could have visited us. [The former All Blacks
captain] Richie McCaw did.”
Waiau,
in north Canterbury, is home to 280 people. Its name means flowing
water in Māori. And flowing water has been the community’s main
concern these last couple of days, after unstable bridges over the
grey Waiau river made road access impossible for relief vehicles, or
residents wanting to leave.
Although
located only 80km (50 miles) south-west of Kaikoura – where a
massive relief operation is under way – people in Waiau feel they
have been left to fend for themselves.
Since
the 7.5-magnitude quake, food supplies have been salvaged from the
collapsed pub and Smith’s tea shop. An elderly woman’s oxygen
bottle has been hooked up to a farm generator to keep her alive.
About
200 people who no longer have a place to call home are camping on the
grass beside a primary school playground.
“I
have been surprised by how long the response has taken,” said Pam
Stikkelman, sitting on a biscuit-strewn sofa at the school, where
residents have been convening for meals.
Stikkelman,
her husband and 11-year-old autistic son moved to Waiau in search of
stability and a peaceful refuge after living through the 2011
Christchurch earthquake. She is leading the town’s domestic welfare
effort from the school.
“The
Christchurch [earthquake] was so different,” she said. “We had
all the response people come really quickly then, they were basically
operating within a few hours. But here we have felt really cut off.”
Stikkelman
said her son shook her awake a few minutes before midnight on Sunday,
screaming that he was terrified and something bad was coming. A few
minutes later the quake hit.
“I
am feeling a strong sense of deja vu. I want a glass of wine, but I
think it would make me burst into tears. Adrenalin is the only thing
we’ve got to keep us going.”
Initial
estimates by surveyors flown in to inspect the damage to the town
suggest at least 15 buildings may have to be demolished, leaving as
many as half of the residents facing an uncertain future.
Opposite
the primary school, the Waiau fire station is organising relief
expeditions to isolated farms.
Volunteers
gathered at the station barely 20 minutes after the quake and by 2am
they had a barbecue cranking out sausage sandwiches and were pushing
hot, sugar-loaded tea into the hands of stunned residents.
The
fire chief, Hugh Wells, said he realised the community would need to
mobilise rapidly because help would not be arriving any time soon.
“I
basically thought, if we are this bad, how bad is the rest of New
Zealand? We need to be ready to feed and look after ourselves for a
couple of days, at least, before help kicks in,” said Wells, his
eyes bloodshot with fatigue.
“We
haven’t really started getting any help till today. It has been
very frustrating watching all the reporters flying around taking
pictures from the sky but not landing to help us or see if we are
OK.”
Back
at Smith’s tea shop, the kitchen hot water cylinder had sprung a
leak, and Smith and her assistant Erica Bolton were trying to stem
the flow.
A
retiree, Paul Newberry-Johnson, who came to the tea shop for a can of
soft drink (his purchase is recorded in a notebook, no money is
exchanged) showed the two women how to shut off the water mains and
manage the flood.
His
home was one of those destroyed in the quake. He said he may move
into Bolton’s spare caravan while he rebuilds.
“The
building inspectors didn’t even bother going into my home, they
just put a red sticker on it which means it’s totalled, destroyed,”
he said.
As
Bolton and Newberry-Johnson walked to the picnic tables to discuss
his accommodation, Smith ran her eyes over the remains of her shop,
her cash register stuck open.
“It
is fine and dandy to look after the tourists and get them out … but
what about the people that have to live in it?”
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